San Sebastian is that corner where the elegance of the Belle Époque blends with the wild force of the Bay of Biscay, creating a setting where every wave on La Concha and every pintxo in the Old Quarter tells a story of distinction and tradition. An essence that from Aumentur we invite you to explore our 2-day guide to get to know the best of the city.

However, it is at Christmas time that Donostia takes on a special glow. Beyond the illumination that enhances its stately architecture, the city celebrates one of its most endearing customs. With more than six decades of lifethe Nativity Scene in Guipúzcoa Square has become, almost since its beginnings, an essential attraction of Christmas in San Sebastian for its majesty and for paying homage to its most beloved Christmas character.

In the heart of the Ensanche, the beautiful Plaza de Guipúzcoa transforms its romantic garden. Its famous central pond is no longer just the home of the swans, but the setting for this Monumental Nativity Scene made by the Association of Nativity Scene Makers, The museum has a unique singularity: a figure that only a Donostian would expect to find. You can see it from end of November to early January.

A monumental nativity scene on the water

Bethlehem Plaza Guipúzcoa in San Sebastián

Every Christmas, the pond in the square becomes the centre of attention. A large-scale Nativity Scene is set up on its waters. It is a spectacular composition made up of some 150 figures, each one of them one metre high. These pieces are organised into seven detailed scenes that are installed on the water: the Birth of the Child Jesusthe Flight to Egypt, Looking for an innthe Annunciation to the shepherdsthe Annunciation to the Virgin Marythe Herod's Palace and, of course, the scene of the Olentzero.

The guest of Basque mythology

Indeed, one of the seven scenes is dedicated exclusively to the Olentzero, the great icon of Christmas in the Basque Country and Navarre. This is the great local singularity of this Nativity Scene, as on the night of 24th December the children are not waiting for Father Christmas, but for this character.

He is depicted as a charcoal burner that, on the night of 24 December, He comes down from the top of the mountain, sometimes on the back of his donkey, to leave gifts for children who have shown exemplary behaviour. His image is unmistakable: a charcoal-stained face, a knotted scarf around his neck and espadrilles. A popular song describes him perfectly: he is a «very intelligent big head», a good eater and fond of a drink. His presence in the Nativity Scene, with its own scene, is a symbol of how traditions coexist in San Sebastian.

Olentzero in the Nativity Scene in Guipúzcoa Square

The Plaza de Guipúzcoa beats with force in Christmas, but it's a place full of life and secrets all year round. You have discovered its winter guest, but... Do you know the story of his romantic «bridge of desires»? Or why does your old marble time table still shows the names of Prussia and Constantinople? These are the stories that turn a walk into a memory.

To explore Donostia at your own pace and get all those fascinating answers at the right time, the Aumentur guide accompanies you on your journey, transforming a simple walk into a real discovery.